Monday 10 July - CAT to Cadair

Route:  From CAT - Dol-ffanog - shores of Tal-y-llyn - Minffordd - Minffordd Pathh - Camp (720124)

Last minute check of the sack, and into the car for the drive to Birmingham and then a train to Machynlleth... and so the Journey begins. 

The official handover for our leg of the walk was at the Centre for Alternative Technology.  The problem of getting there was solved by hitching the short distance out of town.  At CAT met up with Daniel and Nick who had taken ownership of the large baton, and Sophie, who handed over the other, thankfully smaller, baton. 

[Why two batons?  Nobody had warned us of having to take TWO batons.  Ours were carved from Oak.  Other routes had them of Yew, Elm and Beech.  And don't think conductors' baton or relay race baton.  Think slimmed down telegraph pole (or caber).]

This was a great opportunity to walk around CAT, even though time was a little short.  CAT is an amazing place, and well worth a visit.  The half an hour or so we had to walk round didn't do it justice, but time was pressing and I somehow feel that those batons, though full of Celtic mystery and spirit, were unlikely to make it to Snowdon on their own.

Our first steps on the real journey took us from via Corris to the hotel at Minfforth (where Daniel and Nick were staying the night).  On the way we took the opportunity to wander by the shores of Tal-y-Llyn lake, to get the shoulders used to the feel of the rucksacks, and to have a brew to try out the amazing new folding cups. 

At the hotel we were met by a press team from the local paper who interviewed us and took our photograph, before allowing us back into the hotel for a swift meal.  Leaving Daniel and Nick to the comfort of the hotel, we got our packs on and made our way up the hill in the gathering dusk to camp close to the lake under Cadair Idris.  Night fell as we found a suitable spot and tents were quickly erected by the light of headtorches.  A quick brew and sleep.

Tuesday 11 July - Cadair to Kings

Route: Camp - Minffordd Path - Summit - Pony Path - Gwynant - Camp near Kings Youth Hostel (684159)

We woke in glorious surroundings, with the cliffs of Cadair Idris towering around us.  There was cloud around the peaks, but it was dry, and we caught the occasional glimpse of the sun shining up the valley.  A slowish start, as we had time to wait for Daniel and Nick to catch up with us from their hotel.  Boiled eggs for breakfast - a first for Sophie!  Daniel and Nick caught us up as we finished packing the tents and topping up with water, and we started the slow first day walk up the ridge, and round to the peak. Great views as we climbed, the cloud retreating ahead of us as the sun got to work.

By the time we reached the top it was blustery but warm enough, and we settled in the lee of the bothy for a brew. As we started our way down the Pony Path, Sophie left us to return to Minfforth by the west ridge.  The walk down gave us a transformation that we would get to know well over the next few days.  From open mountain top, down heathery slopes to grass and gates and walls, then down again into pasture and farmland, and finally dropping into a valley in the woods, walking under the trees along the banks of a gurgling laughing sparkling stream.

The stream took us down to the campsite close to Kings Youth Hostel.  This was just a field by the river, with a shower and loo (quaintly installed in a garden shed) up the road at the farm.  Sophie caught up with us in the campsite.  Tents pitched, we commandeered the flat rock in the middle of the field to cook on, and sat and chatted in the evening light until the midges defeated us and we withdrew to the safety of tents.

Wednesday 12 July - Into the Rhinogs

Route:  Camp - Abergwynant - Estuary Path - Penmainpool Bridge - (detour via main road) - Bontddu - 666203 - Diffwys ridge (667238) - Y Llethr - Llyn Hywel - Camp 660281

After a slow start (and sausages for breakfast courtesy of Sophie) we set off down the valley to cross the river and start the long ascent into the Rhinogs, intended location of that night's camp.  After a pleasant start, down through the woods and along the old railway beside the river, disaster loomed.  The Penmainpool  toll bridge across the estuary was closed because of some damage, and the troll who lived under the bridge said that we couldn't go across (despite the fact that we clearly could have done. "Insurance" was mentioned - the bureaucrat's first line of defence when faced with argument.)  The alternative was an additional five mile walk up to the main bridge - not an attractive proposition.  This called for drastic measures, and after consulting the Journey for the Wild Ethics Guidebook (Volume 3 - Cadging lifts), we decided it was OK to persuade the nice couple who had just arrived in their car to give us a lift round to the other side.  Mission accomplished, and after copious thanks to the bemused tourists, we started on up the hill.

The walk up from Bontddu was a long uphill slog, but through idyllic Welsh countryside, first along lanes with high hedges and then out onto the moor. There was so much life and colour in the valley, with the air alive with the sound of whinchats and stonechats, and buzzards and ravens mewing and croaking overhead.  The dark heather and bilberry bushes were interspangled with flower and .   The path slowly petered out, but the way ahead was clear, across the heather and bilberries to join a path up old inclines to the ridge of Diffwys.  At the same time, Sophie was climbing up ahead, carrying her bike so she could cycle back down.  Looking down from the top, she spotted us below, but must have been too small to see from below as her calls and waving went unacknowledged!

As the ridge was gained the weather started to change.  The sunshine of earlier was replaced by thick fog, and progressively harder rain, all driven along by a fresh breeze.  The long ridge onto and over y Llethr, which would have been a pleasure in the fine weather, was visible only 50 yards ahead and behind, and seemed to last a lot longer than it should have done!  Some nifty navigation (and a rare check on the GPS) located the path down to Llyn Hywel, the planned campsite for the night.  The visibility in the cwm was even worse and the decision made to press on and downwards until the fog cleared, and then camp there.  Non-existent paths (or usually streambeds) led down past Llyn Cwmhosan (unseen in the mist) and after a little detour (Reminder - even experienced navigators can get disoriented in featureless terrain in thick fog!) and a second recourse to the GPS, the main path was gained.  In gathering gloom and continuous drizzle, it was time to stop.  And as the path was the only piece of flattish dryish ground, that was where the tent went!  Brew, dry clothes, sleeping bag, supper, sleep.

Thursday 13 July - Long walk to TanyG

Route:  Camp - Forest - 675316 - Lake road - Dam - Maentwrog - Ddualt - Camp at south end of Tanygrisiau Reservoir

The day broke clear and sunny, driving away the grey feelings of the night before.  Through the tent you could hear the calls of a family of peregrines calling as they flew out from the crag above the col.  We soon had a brew on and got the wet clothes out and spread them on a rock in the sunshine.  All was good in the world. 

The route for the day took us out of the mountains. Uphill over a col, then down the valley other side, where we saw a large herd of goats.  Then a walk through a forest, where a large healthy looking fox crossed our path.  Breaking out of the forest, we yomped across a damp grassy hill and down to join the road which took us down to Llyn Trawsfynydd.  The lake looked beautiful in the summer sunshine, though signs of its artificial origins are everywhere, dominated by the grey carcass of the nuclear power station.

We stopped for lunch in time to meet up with Daniel and Nick, coming down off the Rhinogs, after a damp night.  Nick's foot was hurting, but after an inspection by the local doctor (Daniel!) and the shifting of some gear, we set off down towards the dam and on to Maentwrog.  It felt like a long downhill walk, hard on the feet on the roads.  We'd hoped to pick up some food in Maentwrog, but the shops was nowhere to be found, so we contented ourselves with a drink in the pub and some crisps.

From Maentwrog we still had a good way to go.  It was a lovely evening, but we were all a bit tired.  The walk took us down into the valley, then a steep climb up to the Ffestiniog Railway. Once we reached the railway it was a level walk.  Alice and Jell stopped when they reached Tanygrisiau Reservoir, camping in a flat spot amongst the rocks by the stream, leaving Daniel and Nick to walk the last few miles to the caving club hut in Tany. 

Friday 14 July - Over the Moelwyns to Snowdon

Route: Camp - Tanygrisiau - Cwmorthin - Cwn Corsig - Llyn yr Adar - Llwynyrhwch - Nantgwynant - Camp at Cwm Llan

Appointment with Sophie and Del for breakfast, so up earlyish to walk into Tanygrisiau at the other end of the lake, which had miraculously emptied overnight!  It had, off course been pumped out up to the top reservoir, which creates a very unusual environment - tidal but fresh water.  It would be fascinating to study the ecology of the lakes.

After an unnecessary diversion around TanyG we met up with Sophie and Del in the cafe by the station, and were rewarded with a big breakfast.  We also took the opportunity to buy some sandwiches and snacks as supplies were running a little low.  Climbing out of Tanygrisiau we watched Sophie and Del on a grueling climb by bike into the mountains in the strong sunshine.  The route over to Llyn Gwynant climbs out of the village past and through the remnants of the thriving slate industry, a fascinating glimpse of the past.  The colours on the lake were rich in the summer sun, contrasting with the messmass of dark slate, some built into huge walls holding back the spoil heaps, some in the walls of old buildings, but most of it in sprawling tips.  Much talk and discussion of why this bit was built this way or what that building was for, and of the lives of the people who had worked the massive venture.  I was left wanting to know more.  When had the mines closed?  How many people had worked there lived there died there?

Deep in talk we took the wrong path out of the workings, taking the solid impressive level over Bwlch y Rhosydd, before retracing our steps and heading north along the fainter track towards Cwm Corsiog, where we stopped on a rock overlooking the lake for some lunch. 

The sight of the Snowdon massif filling the horizon as you crest the ridge by Llyn ar Ardar is impressive, as we had been told.  Another rest on the top to enjoy the view, and we were off down again, over the crags and into the steep valley leading down to Llyn Llagi, and on and on down towards the valley. On the way down, as the slope eased and the landscape got softer and turned to grass and fields, we met an excited gaggle of schoolchildren, coming up to camp at the lake.  Chatting to their instructors we found that some had completed the John Muir Award, and they were captivated by the large baton, and the queued up to touch and stroke the magic wood that had come all the way from the Scilly Isles. Great to see such enthusiasm and excitement with the wild in so many children.

Following on down the hill, when we reached the road we said goodbye to Daniel and Nick, who turned off for the Youth Hostel, while Alice and I descended to the car park (for a drink and a very molten Mars Bar!), before setting off again up the Watkin Path.  It was a beautiful evening climbing the easy track through the woods and up the valley.  When Cwm Llan opened out in front of us, past the narrows, we found a slightly midgy spot for the tent, cooked supper and crawled into sleeping bags to get ready for the final climb of the trip.

Saturday 15 July - South Ridge to Snowdon, and down to Cae Mabon

Route:  Cwm Llan - Bwlch Cwm Llan - Bwlch Main - Yr Wyddfa - Llanberis - Cae Mabon

Alice and I has a slow start, aiming to be a little way ahead of Daniel and Nick, who were climbing from the valley.  We had breakfast, (sharing the last teabag!), enjoyed the cool of the tiny stream on our feet, packed up, topped up with water from the stream and started the long haul up to Bwlch Cwm Llan. 

It was a hot day from the start, and got hotter as it went on.  As we pulled onto the ridge I remembered looking at the map months before and saying to myself "the South Ridge would be a good way up Snowdon", and realised that that statement had been made and accepted without any real consideration of the steepness or the weight we'd be carrying!  (I['d enjoyed the South Ridge the last time I'd done it, but that time (with Pete in March 2005), I'd been going DOWN!) 

There was no sign of Daniel and Nick, even from the ridge, from where we could see the whole approach.  We were worried that Nick's foot had got worse, and that they had decided to find another route to Cae Mabon.  Equally puzzling was that there was no sign of Sophie, who we had expected to join us for the final day.

The ridge took us a long time to get up, but we were encouraged by the fact that all the way along (in fact from the very start of the day's walk)  we could see the peak, and as we climbed it got visibly closer.  Soon we were higher than the Lliwedd col, and then higher than Lliwedd itself.  And finally we were there.

The top was, as ever in the summer, crowded with people.  The usual mixture of serious walkers doing the ridges, those who had walked up from Llanberis (a feat in itself on a day like that) and the train passengers.  I share Alice's mixed feelings towards the train passengers.  On one hand I despise them for the way they crowd out a beautiful summit, covering the rocks in crisp packets and abandoned cans and bottles.  They don't deserve to be there on this majestic peak, with its sweeping ridges and diving cliffs.  But then for some of them, maybe, just maybe, the sight of the wild mountains touches them and they want to come back and try it some more.  Walking and getting close to it this time. 

We climbed the crowded pyramid for the obligatory photograph, only to find our heads in a swarm of flying ants!  To our surprise, Dan and Nick arrived.  We had rather given up on them when we hadn't spotted them on the climb, and it was good to see them and to be able to have a group picture on the highest point of our walk

The Flying Ants Mystery Thinking about it later I realised that swarming flying ants fly to the highest local point, where they hope to find a virgin queen who has done the same thing.  This is usually a very effective and simple mechanism for ensuring that queens and males meet up and continue the ant species.  In flatter land (like my front garden) you can see swarms at the end of summer over the tops of trees or the chimney of the house. I guess ants on the steep ridges of Snowdon, with no trees to lure them from their upward path, just keep going until they reach the top.  And the highest thing around will always be the heads of the people standing on the summit.

(with Cadair Idris just visible way in the background).  They handed us a tin of ravioli that Sophie had bought for our supper the night before and that Daniel had had to carry all the way up in the sun.

The walk back down, along the Llanberis Path, was hot and a bit pounding.  As we dropped off the mountain and into the fields we met Sophie coming the other way to meet us.  She'd not felt up to the walk over the top, and was saving herself for her epic walk/run/climb over the mountains the next day.  She brought the welcome news that we would have supper in Pete's Eats, courtesy of JMT, before walking round to Cae Mabon. 

Pete's was up to expectations, big portions of good solid stuff - even Alice's cottage cheese salad was huge.  As we walked round to Cae Mabon on the other side of the lake, there was a beautiful sunset behind us.  Sophie caught a perfect picture of the evening light reflecting on the water.  Tired, we arrived at Cae Mabon as darkness fell, and were made very welcome by Jessica.  Tea in the kitchen was quickly followed by collapse into sleeping bags and a long sleep.

Sunday 16 July - Home!

Up early for a shower in Eric's house, keeping as quiet as we could, as we knew Eric had got back late.  We had a cup of tea in the kitchen, and all left quietly for the walk back round to Llanberis for the bus to Bangor and the train.  Just as we were leaving, Eric caught up with us. It was good to be able to meet him and thank him for his hospitality.  Sadly he couldn't give us a tour of his amazing site, because there was a group staying, but he took us down to the woods alongside the site, where we could glimpse some of the buildings and get a feel for the place. 

We walked round the mirror calm lake to Llanberis, to find we had nearly an hour before the bus - plenty of time (we thought) for breakfast in Pete's!  In fact by the time we had wandered down there, and ordered and sat down, we suddenly realised the bus was about to arrive, so it was a bit of a dash in the end! But we made it, and meandered around the villages before being dropped off in front of Bangor Station.

Bangor, Crewe, Birmingham, and then the walk to pick up my car from Alice's house.  And then a warm drive back to Hampshire - Journey's End!